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Ma Nature, lack of publicity hurt El Dorado wineries


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By Kathryn Reed

FAIR PLAY – Not a cloud in the sky, not many people in the wineries. From a consumer standpoint the first day of the El Dorado County barrel tasting event was great. From the viewpoint of some of the 27 wineries that are part of the event, Saturday was disappointing.

Coming off a harvest that was bizarre by most definitions, having a special event that is less than successful is not welcome. The event continues today. But at $35 for the weekend, it is more money than 2011.

Barrel tasting continues today at designated El Dorado County wineries. Photos/Kathryn Reed

Some industry officials who spoke to Lake Tahoe News off the record on Jan. 28 attributed the less than stellar turn out to the public relations-marketing firm that is in its first year for El Dorado Winery Association.

The latest stats on the website are from March 2011. The latest press release is from February 2009.

Twenty-seven wineries were on the list this year as participants in the barrel tasting event – one more than 2011. In 2010, 1,200 tickets were sold, while 2,000 were sold in 2011. Ticket sales for this year have not been released.

An increase in price during a recession could be a contributing factor to the decline of participants in this event that started in 2007. This year the weekend pass is $35 (tickets still available for today), compared to $20 or $25 for the two days in 2011. No Sunday-only tickets were for sale, as was the case last year for a price less than the weekend rate.

A Fair Play winery said the barrel tasting event in 2011 attracted about 1,400 visitors. About 10 were at this particular winery midday Saturday. Usually people are flowing out of the tasting area – even when the weather has been less than ideal.

Lake Tahoe News reporters are used to having to struggle to get to the counter to get a pour. Of the five wineries visited Saturday, the opposite was the case.

Vines are dormant -- but it's still dry, as evidenced by the brown at Skinner vineyard.

Besides the lack of people, the lack of rain is everywhere. Brown terrain proves moisture has been scarce. Cows are munching on grass in fields that are normally green and several inches tall.

John Latcham, who manages the vineyards for Latcham Winery, says he knows of people who have already started to irrigate.

“If this continues, we’ll be irrigating soon,” Latcham said. “The water table is way down.”

The irony about this dry winter is last year was extraordinarily wet – setting records for moisture totals in so many parts of Northern California.

But growing grapes is farming. And farmers and Mother Nature have a love-hate relationship. The love seems to be lukewarm based on the inconsistencies.

Last year at this time Single Leaf Vineyards had 70 inches if rain. This year 10 inches have been recorded. Pam Miller, who owns the winery with her husband, said someplace in between would be ideal.

“Don’t tell me there is not climate change,” Miller told Lake Tahoe News. “There is no doubt Northern California is changing.”

With the abundance of moisture a year ago, which kept coming during the fall harvest of grapes, it meant Latcham lost 40 percent of its harvest. The white grapes were off the vine before the problems arose, but the reds – especially the tender Zinfandel grapes – were hit hard.

Scott Miller is about to pour from the barrel Jan. 28 at Single Leaf.

The rain drops the sugar content of the grapes.

“Not only was it a difficult harvest, it was expensive,” Latcham said.

Bunch rot was a problem for some wineries.

Still, winemakers believe the 2011 vintage will be good.

“We’re optimistic about 2011,” said Greg Baiocchi, winemaker at Miraflores.

What will come of 2012 remains to be seen. This is the normal dormant season for the vines. Every place is below normal for rainfall, but there is still time for that to be made up.

 

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Comments (3)
  1. Maria Pielaet says - Posted: January 29, 2012

    The El Dorado Wine country is so much fun to visit: the wines are good to excellent, the people are nice, the area is beautiful, and the prices are good! And the wines in Fairplay are among the most medaled in the state.

  2. Barbara Keck says - Posted: January 30, 2012

    I’m what you might call a “volunteer advocate” for Sierra Foothill wineries, and I know many of the wineries, winery owners and winemakers in the region. I also write the WineTime column for The Tahoe Weekly … so I go to a lot of industry events and talk to scads of people in the winebiz.
    Actually, the event was quite well publicized. I received notification quite a while ago. But sadly, it went head-to-head against the big ZAP tasting in San Francisco — and that Zinfandel event drew almost 10,000 consumers.
    The ZAP tasting is always the same time every year: the last weekend of January. If there was a flaw in the planning of this event, then it was in not considering what a huge draw ZAP is.
    Yes, the 2011 vintage was challenging, but many winemakers who attended the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium in Sacramento — also the last week of January every year — know how to make the best use of their grapes. Some say the 2011 vintage will be among the best in a long time. Yes, the vineyard owners are fretting about the lack of water so far this year. Thank goodness there are substantial water rights in place for many of them!
    Perhaps next year the event could be moved to mid-February. That would give the winemakers and wineries time to unpack from Sacramento, clean the tablecloths from ZAP, and put out that last-minute PR blitz of their own to their wineclubs and friends-and-family lists.
    You can’t expect an industry association to do it all.
    As for wine lovers, how about cheering on the Sierra Foothill wine region yourself? I taste thousands of wines a year, and the Sierra Foothill wines are among the best that California has to offer. Intense flavor. Balance. Expressive of terroir. Good aging potential.
    For starters, become friends of the wineries on their Facebook pages. Go one level deeper in social media and add them to your Twitter feed. Here are the “handles” for several El Dorado wineries:
    @BoegerWinery
    @MadronaVineyard
    @CrystalBasin
    @FitzpatrickWine
    @HollysHill
    @LavaCapWinery
    @Mount_Aukum
    @Skinner_Wines
    @cgdiarie
    @SierraVistaWine
    @OakStoneWinery
    @ShadowRanchWine
    @SynapseWines
    @SalutiCellars
    @FoothillWino (Baiocchi Wines)

    And oh yes, follow my blogposts in http://sierrafoothillswineries.blogspot.com/

    An event to calendar, by the way: The Barbera Festival in Amador, June 9. Save your pennies for the ticket, and don’t miss it.

  3. Sandy says - Posted: January 30, 2012

    Wow … that was a little self-serving.

    This weekend has been successful before. They picked it because it’s between the Championship games and Super Bowl.