K’s Kitchen: Discovering my Danish roots over a hot stove
By Kathryn Reed
Sometimes it’s better no one is in the kitchen when I’m cooking – especially when it’s the first time I’ve made a particular dish.
This was true Sunday morning. Aebelskivers were about to be made.
It was messy. (It doesn’t have to be.) It was smoky. (Doesn’t have to be.) It wasn’t pretty. (Doesn’t have to be.) But finally, it was tasty and they even looked good. It’s a good thing the batter made a few dozen so my mistakes didn’t have to reach the table.
Aebelskivers are a Danish doughnut – sort of. While they look like the size of a doughnut hole, they taste more like a pancake.
I remember my mom making them when I was growing up. (I have Danish in me from both sides of the family.)
When I was in Solvang last month I introduced them to Sue. She had never heard of them, let alone had one, or two, or three. It seemed like every restaurant in this Danish-town in the middle of California served them with powdered sugar and raspberry jelly.
Mom remembers eating them with butter and powdered sugar.
And what I remembered about mom’s were they were much lighter (and tastier) than the ones we had in Solvang.
Until I talked to mom about aebelskivers I didn’t realize it takes a special pan to make them. She had one to loan me, though it’s not the one her mom used. But the recipe she shared is from my grandma.
I used canola oil. And you need to keep filling up the portals. It’s a delicate balance between making sure the pan is hot enough and not too hot. I’m not sure I found the balance, but somewhere in the process I made several that were just right.
Living with a New Englander meant we skipped the jam topping and went right to pure Vermont maple syrup.
Grandma Frances’ Aebelskivers
3 eggs, separated
2 T sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
½ tsp salt
2 C flour
2 C buttermilk
Beat egg yolks, add sugar, salt and buttermilk. Combine flour, soda, baking powder and add to liquid. Beat egg whites until stiff and fold into batter. Heat pan. Place small amount oil in each well and fill two-thirds full. Cook until bubbly. Turn with fork and cook until done.
Can be served dusted with powder sugar, jam, syrup or eat straight from the skillet.